Why we choose time, craft, and nature over shortcuts.
At Groundcover, we believe our customers care about what they buy - what it’s made from, why it’s made, and the impact it has on our community. Every shoe we make tells a story, and that story begins long before a single stitch is sewn - in the hands of our local tanners.
Last week, I took our kids on a walkthrough of one of the local tanneries we’ve worked with for more than 35 years. The familiar smell of hides, the rhythmic hum of the drums, the quiet patience of the craft - it reminded me of why we are so proud of the product we make.
We use leather tanned in variety of ways, but our favourite is vegetable-tanned leather - a method that’s as natural as it is time-honoured.
THE PROCESS
1. From Hide to Tannery
It all starts with raw hides, a by-product of the meat industry. They’re cleaned, dehaired, and soaked to remove any remaining flesh or fat - preparing them for the slow transformation ahead.
2. Into the Tanning Pits or Drums
The hides are placed in large tanning pits or slowly rotating wooden drums filled with water and natural tannins extracted from tree bark, leaves, and roots - most commonly from mimosa, quebracho, or chestnut.
Over the course of several weeks, the hides gently absorb these tannins, gaining flexibility, strength, and a rich earthy tone. By the end, the hides have deepened in tone and developed that unmistakable, earthy smell - a sign of true craft.
3. Splitting and Shaving
Once tanned, the hides are thick and uneven. They’re carefully split into layers: the top “grain” layer, which we use for our finest leather goods, and the lower “split” layer, which has a coarser texture. Each piece is then shaved to a uniform thickness to ensure consistency in our workshop.
4. Re-tanning, Stretching, and Dyeing
Next, the hides return to the drums for re-tanning or drum dyeing. Natural dyes and oils are added to enhance colour and softness. As the hides tumble, the fibres relax and absorb these natural ingredients evenly. Once dyed, they’re stretched across large frames - a step that prevents shrinkage and gives the leather its natural flexibility and smooth surface.
5. Drying and Finishing
When dried, the leather is rolled, conditioned, and sometimes lightly waxed or buffed to achieve the perfect finish. Each tannery has its own blend of oils, waxes, and finishing techniques - small secrets that give their leather its unique feel, aroma, and character.
6. The Final Character
The result is a leather that feels alive. Firm yet supple, it carries warmth, depth, and a natural beauty that can’t be replicated by synthetic processes. Over time, it softens, darkens, and develops a patina that reflects its journey - from local hide, to tannery, to workshop, to you.
Good tanning takes time - but time is what gives leather its soul.
Walking through that tannery with my children, I realised they were seeing the same process, and even some of the same faces, that I saw at their age. It’s a reminder that true craftsmanship isn’t just about making things - it’s about keeping traditions alive.
Every mark, shade, and scent tells a story - one that connects the land, the makers, and everyone who wears Groundcover.
by Daniel McCarthy, Owner, Groundcover Leather Company
